Rococo Steak’s wine list is large by any standard. With more than 1,280 labels, it stretches across current releases, mature vintages, and small-production wines that rarely surface on restaurant lists in St. Petersburg. The size is striking, but the philosophy behind it is what shapes how the program actually functions.
Behind the scenes, the list is kept in motion through constant tasting and evaluation. Sommelier Aaron Warren describes a routine built around repetition and study rather than seasonal overhauls. “As a sommelier team, we taste with distributors frequently, usually totaling around 100 different labels each week,” he said. “We’re also studying and reading about wine daily.”
That pace feeds directly into how the list is priced and maintained. Rococo works with minimal markup, a structure that changes how wine moves through the restaurant. “Our focus is on selling the wine rather than storing it,” Warren explained. “We also offer rare and vintage bottles that most programs don’t carry.”
Where the Pairing Philosophy Comes From
Rococo’s pairing approach starts with Warren’s belief that wine should respond to the guest rather than follow a script. Instead of building fixed combinations, he structured the program around conversation and adjustment.
“Pairing is truly guest-centric,” he said. “We love to match the intensity of the wine with the intensity of the food’s flavor.”
That idea plays out differently depending on the cut. Richer steaks like wagyu ribeye often call for bold, youthful reds with structure and tannin. For leaner preparations, the conversation shifts. “We might suggest a Right Bank Bordeaux with some age for a filet mignon,” Warren said, pointing to balance and texture rather than power.
For guests unsure where to begin with a list of this size, the starting point is familiarity. “We love to have a quick discussion with guests about wines they’ve enjoyed in the past,” Warren said. Because the list includes many small producers, those conversations often lead to wines guests have never tried before.
Wine Service Behind the Scenes
Rococo’s wine service blends classic technique with practical tools that support both older bottles and high-volume service. The list is available digitally to maintain accuracy, while equipment such as the Durand and improved lighting help with decanting mature vintages.
“We utilize all the technology available while maintaining the tradition of humble wine service,” Warren said. “We use the Durand, improved lighting sources to aid in decanting, and the best polishing machines to properly clean and prepare stemware.”
The focus, he noted, is consistency and care, especially when working with wines that require extra attention.
What Guests Are Drinking Now
Cabernet Sauvignon continues to dominate in a steakhouse setting, but Warren has seen guests branch out beyond the expected. “We’ve seen a notable uptick in the consumption of Syrah, Aglianico, and Nebbiolo,” he said. “All of which have regions with world-class production and still offer excellent value.”
White wine is another area where the list often surprises guests. “White wine, in general, is often overlooked at Rococo,” Warren said. “We feature some of the best domestic and international producers on Earth.” Among those are a rare selection of early-2000s Chardonnay bottlings that challenge assumptions about ageability and placement on a steakhouse list.
Rococo’s Role in St. Pete’s Wine Scene
Within St. Petersburg’s wine community, Rococo functions as both a destination and a gathering place for industry professionals. Warren describes the list as one of the most valuable in Pinellas County, noting that sommeliers and buyers frequently cross paths here and at nearby wine-focused restaurants.
“We have one of the most valuable lists in Pinellas County,” he said. “Many of our friends and fellow purchasers and sommeliers support one another, and we often meet up here and at Sauvignon [Wine Locker] with other vinophiles.”
Those relationships extend beyond the dining room. Rococo maintains active partnerships with more than twenty alcohol distributors, which allows the team to source bottles that are rarely accessible on short notice. “This year, a guest needed a 1945 Haut-Brion,” Warren said. “In less than two months, we were able to bring it from France, despite tariff challenges.”
What’s Coming Next
Several new allocations are arriving in the coming months, continuing the list’s mix of established producers and limited-production releases. “We’re about to receive new allocations from Antica Terra,” Warren said. “Some 00 Wines are being delivered for the first time in our state this month. Checkerboard Wines have just arrived, along with several other exciting additions.”
When it comes to seasonal buying or gift bottles, Warren encourages guests to look beyond reputation alone. “Just because a bottle is sought-after or expensive doesn’t automatically make it good,” he said. “Usually, small production wines make great gifts and often can be affordable too if you know the right producers.”
At Rococo, the scale of the list sets the stage. How it comes to life depends on conversation, context, and the person guiding the experience.